Day fourteen - after the fire

Christof popped his head round my door this morning to say he was going to look at the site of yesterday’s forest fire and asked if I’d like to go along too. I quickly put on my walking boots, grabbed my camera and water bottle, and followed him down the track.

We had a rough idea where the fire had been so headed in that direction, along one of the more challenging paths through Ivoloina forest. It was a lovely walk, made much more interesting because Christof was so knowledgeable about the habitat we were passing through. He explained that most of the forest at Ivoloina is secondary, but that there are a few pockets of original forest left. One such place was on our route - a glade of huge, ancient tree ferns that cast dappled shade onto the forest floor.
As we rounded a particularly sharp bend in the track we found evidence of some illegal activity: a cinnamon tree stump protruded from the ground and nearby lay a pile of timber which had been stripped of its bark. Someone had been into the protected area and felled the tree to obtain the cinnamon.

 

 

Christof took a GPS reading so he could report it on our return. A little further on we found an almost identical scene. Both trees had been cut very recently, perhaps in the past day or two.  We were by now very close to the site of the forest fire and we wondered whether it had been started to cover the tracks of this illegal activity. Of course that is just speculation. There had been very little rainfall and everything was tinder dry so an innocent spark from a cooking fire or cigarette could have been enough to start the blaze.

We came to a small man made canal and jumped across into an area where the vegetation had been cleared to form a fire break. Charred leaves and tree trunks marked the boundary of the fire and from there as far as the eye could see was total devastation. We were at the foot of a steep slope, still well within the boundary of Parc Ivoloina. The ground was covered with a thick layer of ash and the air was acrid with the lingering smell of smoke. Christof wanted to see the extent of the fire so he started to climb the slope. The ground was very unstable so he suggested that I waited by the canal while he went up to see the bigger picture and he would collect me again on the way back.

While he was gone I took the opportunity to sit still and watch any wildlife that might still be present. It was very quiet. Madagascan buzzards wheeled overhead, their mournful cry echoing through the still air. Plated lizards rustled through the charred leaves. A jewel-bright day gecko stalked an unsuspecting moth across the surface of a ravenala leaf. Watching from underneath I could see his shadow through the backlit leaf.

After more than an hour I was getting a little concerned. I thought Christof might have lost his bearings in the featureless fire-damaged landscape or perhaps he had gone to the aid of villagers trying to salvage something from damaged homes. I had arranged to observe some of the Saturday School sessions today so eventually I decided to make my way back to the education centre and let people know that I wasn’t sure where Christof had gone. I didn’t want him to waste time searching for me if he did come back so in best girl guide fashion I wrote him a note in big letters on a ravenala leaf, placed the leaf next to the place where we had crossed the canal, and made a big arrow out of branches that pointed at the message.

I was almost back as far as the zoo when I met Christof and Jean-Francois coming in the opposite direction. It transpired that the burned zone was so vast that Christof had lost his bearings. He had been calling my name but must have been a long way from where we had parted so I didn’t hear him. He was then worried that I may have wandered off and got lost so he had sprinted back to the zoo via a different route and organised a search party - apparently several MFG staff and local villagers were out looking for me. I felt a bit embarrassed but it wasn’t really my fault - I hadn’t wandered off and I wasn’t lost. It was touching that so many people cared about my well-being though.
Christof was close to heat exhaustion after rushing around so much so we went to the buvette for a large bottle of fizzy pineapple. Then he went back home for a rest and I went to the education centre.
The children were sitting a pre-course assessment test. They will do the same test at the end of the course so the teachers will be able to evaluate their learning.

Flavien came over to say hello. He had helped with fighting the fire the previous day and his throat was sore from smoke inhalation. He showed some video he had taken with his phone. The blaze was really fierce and it was clear that it had been a serious and dangerous situation. It is very lucky that no-one was seriously injured and that it hadn’t spread even further. In all, about 50 hectares was burnt. All that remained were eucalyptus and a few scorched ravenala.

That evening Christof suggested that we went down to the zoo once it was dark so we could see some of the nocturnal lemurs. The keepers had just fed the aye-aye and this strange and wonderful creature was tucking into some juicy melon. It was quite interested in us and came right over to the fence, snuffling loudly. It was such a treat to see an aye-aye outside. Those I have seen in European zoos are kept indoors on reverse lighting. Here she simply comes out when it gets dark! We also saw the zoo’s dwarf lemurs and mouse lemurs. They too were very active.

After leaving the zoo we went for a short walk looking for night creatures by torchlight. We saw some frogs and two small snakes.

 

When we got back I went in to the shower room for a bucket shower and surprised a large rat sitting on the window sill. While I was washing, Christof cooked a simple but delicious meal of rice and fresh vegetables which was followed by fresh, sweet pineapple.
Then we sat outside listening to music drifting up from the nearby village of Ambonivato. The full moon was enormous - almost bright enough to read by!

Day thirteen - a day in Tamatave

There were a couple of short heavy showers during the night but by the morning all traces had vanished. Today Christof and I were both due to attend a meeting with the some of the MFG steering committee to discuss the ecoagriculture programme. The meeting was to be at Karen’s Tamatave hotel because she has her leg in plaster and it is easier for people to travel to her than vice versa. The meeting was scheduled for the afternoon but there is no public transport from Ivoloina to Tamatave so we travelled in with the MFG supply truck first thing in the morning.

We were dropped off at the MFG office and I took the opportunity to spend the morning writing up notes and charging camera batteries.
At 12 we took a pousse-pousse to the hotel. The driver seemed to get a bit lost so eventually we stopped him, got out and walked the rest of the way. We had lunch at the hotel before our scheduled meeting and I had my first cold beer for many days!

As the meeting was about to start Maya received a phone call to say that there was a serious forest fire on the outskirts of Ivoloina. All the staff were out fighting the fire alongside people from several nearby villages. There is a whistle alarm system that alerts the community to fires and all able-bodied people turn out to fight it. There had been no real rain for several weeks so the forest was very dry and the fire was spreading fast. It was decided that there wasn’t much we could do from where we were so the meeting went ahead because there were some important decisions to be made. Maya kept in touch with Bernard by phone and thankfully we eventually received the welcome message that the fire was out and no-one had been hurt.

Karen was in a lot of pain from her broken leg. New x-rays showed that the bones had not been properly aligned and it was becoming increasingly urgent for her to get some proper medical attention. Her insurance company did not seem to understand how poor the medical facilities are in Tamatave and appeared reluctant to organise an evacuation.
By the time the meeting ended it was dark and the journey back was nail-biting. The road was extremely busy and all the bicycles and pousse-pousses (of which there were hundreds) had no lights. Vehicles were swerving all over the place and I was jolly glad I wasn’t driving!

 

Day twelve - ecoagriculture, a snake and a baby lemur

This morning I had a tour of the Model Station to see the ecoagriculture programme. The Model Station has several roles. Christian is the Model Station manager and he and his team run research trials on different plant varieties and growing techniques to ensure that the information they pass on to farmers is based on firm evidence. Farmer training takes place at the Model Station and also on the farmers’ own land. In addition, on the site of the model station is a tree nursery and research area, where Jean-Francois carries out trials into different techniques for propagating endangered tree species such as ebony and rosewood. Young trees are grown to be used in the MFG’s reforestation programme in collaboration with Missouri Botanical Gardens.

 

In the potager Christian trials different growing techniques for food crops such as rice, bananas, beans, tomatoes and cucumbers. Most produce goes to the zoo and to the buvette, but the rice goes to the Saturday School. While visiting the potager Christof and I came across the freshly killed carcass of a small mammal. It had been partially eaten (probably by a village dog) so it wasn’t easy to identify but I thought it could be a tenrec. When we were returning through the potager a few minutes later we spotted a large Madagascar hog-nosed snake and, to my surprise, it was trying to swallow the tenrec. It is the first time I have seen evidence of a snake eating carrion. As we moved around to get a few photos the snake became very possessive of its prize and tried to drag it away through the grass. The strength and tenacity of the snake were very impressive.  We watched in fascination as it slowly walked its jaws up and around the animal (which was easily as big as a large guinea-pig). It was clearly going to be a long process so we left the snake to its meal.

Next to the Model Station are some demonstration rice paddies. At the moment they are being used to test the efficacy of bat guano as a fertiliser.

Christian has been trying out different agroforestry techniques, where crops are interplanted with trees, to find out which are most effective. This can be useful when farming slopes. The tree roots retain the soil and, depending on which tree are used, can also provide fruit. Grasses are also sometimes used along the contours for soil retention.
Christof showed me a variety of trees which are grown for crops in Madagascar, including cinnamon, cloves (pictured), mangoes, pepper and kapok. I also saw vanilla, which is a climber. The vanilla and pepper plantation is interplanted with pineapple plants, which are faster growing.

When the tour had finished I met up with Jana at the education centre to discuss her ideas for developing the exhibits there. Jana is an artist and she showed me some of her drawings - they are absolutely stunning.
At lunchtime today I joined Christof and the MFG staff for lunch at the staff refectory at the conservation training centre. Jana and Maya also ate with us. The MFG staff were astounded by the photographs of the snake and confirmed that the animal it was eating was indeed a tenrec.
After lunch I walked down to the zoo. There was a baby greater bamboo lemur born a few weeks ago and I wanted to get a glimpse. This species is critically endangered and the baby is a very precious addition to the breeding programme. The group were all feeding in their enclosure and as I watched I suddenly saw a tiny hand reaching out towards a bamboo leaf. The baby was snuggled in close to its mother’s stomach but was taking a real interest in its surroundings and its little round head turned back and forth, watching the other lemurs.

Some of the lemurs in the zoo are free-ranging and as I left a small twig hit me on the head. I looked up and high in the branches above me were two black and white ruffed lemurs, grooming themselves.
Tonight it was my turn to cook and I thought I’d make something that didn’t involve rice. I had a couple of potatoes and an onion so made some rösti, which I served up with egg. Sadly, the potato stuck to the bottom of the flimsy pan so although it tasted OK it didn’t look that appetising. I think poor Christof is starting to regret asking me to share cooking duties!
It was very hot this evening so I sat outside for a while writing up some notes about the education centre exhibit for Jana. There was some rustling in a nearby tree and when I shone my torch I saw an adorable dwarf lemur trotting along the branch. It was only a fleeting glimpse but now the litchis are ripening I think we may start to see more lemurs close to the bungalow.
Big clouds were starting to gather in the East. Could rain be on the way?

Day Eleven - Back to Ivoloina

I awoke at 5am again to the sound of the indri. I’m going to miss them! Today we leave Betampona and return to Ivoloina.

I went out on to the veranda and saw the bamboo lemurs in a clump of bamboo right next to the hut. I tiptoed back into my room to get my camera. Unfortunately just as I came back out the research centre’s very elderly dog, Puppy, saw the lemurs and hobbled excitedly towards and then right into the bamboo clump. Unsurprisingly the lemurs were not impressed and shot off through the trees, alarm calling vigorously. When Puppy emerged he looked most pleased with himself!

Too soon it was time to leave Rendrirendry. Ingrid was also leaving with us and we sadly said our goodbyes to the Malagasy staff and to Lana before following the porters on the long, steep walk back down to Fontsimavo.
The water level in the river we had crossed so many times on our way up was visibly lower but it was still necessary to wade across in some places. Sadly, all the way down there were signs of tavy, the destructive slash and burn method used to clear land for agriculture. Looking back up at the mountain the location of the reserve boundary was clearly demarcated by the contrast in vegetation inside and outside the protected area. Degraded habitat goes right up to the boundary. Betampona really is a tiny island of biodiversity stranded in an ocean of devastation.

 

At Fontsimavo we boarded the same taxibrousse that we came up in and had a bumpy, slow ride back to the river crossing at Anosibe. The water level was quite a bit lower and we could probably have waded to the opposite side but the pirogue driver was eager to paddle us across so we clambered in.
At the other side we were met by one of the Parc Ivoloina drivers. It was a much more comfortable ride back than we had experienced on our outward journey in the taxibrousse. The road was of course still appalling and we had to go slowly and carefully.
When we arrived back at Ivoloina I got out and took my bag to my room to unpack. Ingrid stayed in the truck and continued her journey to Tamatave. Jeff wanted a quick look around Ivoloina before he also went to Tamatave so he went off with Parc manager Bernard to see the new Amphibian Conservation Centre. A couple of hours later Jeff and I met up for lunch at the Parc’s cafe, the ‘Thirsty Drongo Buvette’. It was very pleasant to sit overlooking the lake, enjoying a plate of pasta and talking about all the amazing wildlife we had seen.

Bernard had arranged for one of the MFG drivers, Dada, to take Jeff to his hotel at Tamatave and Dada offered to take me along too, so I could change some money and get some fresh supplies in town. Once we had dropped Jeff off we drove into Tamatave and I paid a visit to the money changers. I wanted to change 100 Euros and the clerk gave me all the money in 5000 Ariary notes so it was a very fat wedge of notes to cram into my moneybelt! Dada kindly accompanied me to the supermarket and carried my basket so I bought him a bottle of lemonade and a bar of chocolate to thank him.
Dada needed to pick up some parts from the garage so we went back through a different area of town. There was a huge market with stalls selling a wide variety of wares. I wouldn’t mind coming back for a good look around some time.
When I got home I did my washing and had a bucket shower. Christof arrived back and cooked rice with green beans, spring onion and ginger in soy sauce. It was very tasty. After supper we sat outside for a while and chatted. Christof has earmarked some time tomorrow to show me around the Model Station and explain the projects currently taking place there. I’m looking forward very much to learning about that element of the MFG’s work.

Day Ten - Ruffed lemurs and a froggy paradise

Today we had another full day in the reserve, this time led by head guide Jean-Noel. We headed to a different part of the forest from yesterday, with the aim of locating black and white ruffed lemurs. Again, we have this species at the IOW Zoo (Liberty and Lalaina) so I was especially keen to see them in the wild. We could hear a group calling but they were a very long way away. We headed towards the sound and eventually, with the help of the radio-tracker, we found a group of four animals. They were relaxing in a very tall tree, draping their limbs over the branches.

This species is officially classified on the IUCN red list as being critically endangered. They are such a ubiquitous sight in zoos that we can sometimes perhaps forget that there are only very few left in the wild. And here I was looking at some! It brought home to me how precious each of these individuals is, and how critical it is that we protect the few places where they are still found.
We spent a pleasant hour watching the lemurs and our guides kindly shared some of their deliciously sweet bananas with us. Just as we were about to leave the lemurs suddenly broke out into a territorial vocalisation - a loud, piercing call that travels a very long distance. It is a sound that I hear every day at work, but somehow, here in the forest, it sounded different: more poignant.
Jeff of course is really an amphibian enthusiast. He had been very patient and was just as excited as the rest of us to see the lemurs but he also knew that a couple of years ago a team of herpetologists had carried out an amphibian survey at Betampona and had discovered 27 new species. He was itching to visit the survey site and Jean-Noel, who also happens to be very keen on frogs, agreed to take us there. He warned that it was a long, steep trek but it was too good an opportunity to miss so we set off right down into the bottom of the valley. Jean-Noel has, like all good guides, very keen observational skills and as we followed the path he spotted a tiny pygmy chameleon. It was a perfect miniature version of this fascinating lizard and was about 4cm long.

By the time we arrived at the bottom of the hill my knees were really creaking. It was definitely worth the trek though. A sparkling river ran through a glade of trees and as the sun shone down through the canopy the leaves cast a wonderful green light across the floor. Frogs were everywhere. Jeff and Jean-Noel were like excited school boys as they gleefully caught and photographed large frogs and small, of so many different colours.

 

 

Several species were not known to exist anywhere in the world except this small, isolated valley. The air was full of frog sound, too, including the call of one of the critically endangered Mantella species. Once again I was reminded how important it is to conserve this wonderful forest.
We had a leisurely picnic by the river then reluctantly left this little bit of paradise and slowly made our way back up to the track before returning to camp and a much needed shower.

The afternoon was rounded off perfectly as dusk fell: a group of bamboo lemurs came to feed just a few metres from my veranda. Ingrid and Lana joined me to watch their exploits and we had a job to smother our laughs when the little lemurs left, one at a time, by launching themselves at the nearest ravenala. Each tiny animal landed with a huge thud, sending tremors through the whole plant!

We had a few extra treats for dinner tonight. One of the herps team, Angelica, had stayed in camp an extra day when her team left because she had sprained her ankle and wanted to rest it a bit longer. She brought some Italian treats to share so our rice and vegetables were supplemented with olive oil and parmesan cheese. In addition Charlotte, the cook, had used the potatoes I had brought with me to make a few chips. After dinner I brought out a bar of chocolate and there was just enough for everyone to have a square or two to round off the meal. Lovely!
After dinner Angelica, Ingrid, Jeff and I donned head torches and went up the main track for a bug hunt. We found a number of interesting creatures including one solitary stick insect, shiny copper beetles, a mantis and a fantastic net-throwing spider. We also came across a striped baby snake, several geckos and a tree frog.

It was late when we finally got back and I slept really well.

 

Day Nine - The Song of the Indri

I was woken at 5am by the song of indri echoing across the reserve. What a start to the day! I sat on the veranda watching the sun come up and listening to the sounds of the rainforest.

After a quick breakfast Ingrid, Lana, Jeff and I were soon accompanying our guides into Betampona reserve.
It wasn’t long before we saw our first lemurs. A group of white-fronted brown lemurs were feasting on pink flowers high in the canopy. One was carrying a tiny baby. We have this species at the IOW Zoo (Mork and Isabella) and it was so exciting to see their wild cousins in their natural habitat.
A little further on we came across some grey bamboo lemurs with very cute faces. A noisy vasa parrot was feeding high above them and a large pill bug had curled up on the path near our feet.
By now we were quite a long way into the reserve and the guides switched on the radio-tracking equipment that Lana uses to locate her study animals. They soon picked up a signal from one of the study’s diademed sifaka and we followed as the signal grew stronger. Lana indicated that the lemurs were off to the right so if we wanted to see them we had to go ‘off-piste’. We plunged as quietly as possible down a precipitous slope, grabbing tree trunks and creepers as we went, to slow our descent. As we neared the animals the guide raised his hand to warn us that we were close and we all froze, holding our breath. Then I saw them. There were two sifaka clinging, one above the other, to the trunk of a tree. They were exquisite. I tried to take some photographs but it was difficult to focus the image because there were so many branches and creepers between us and the lemurs.

The female suddenly leapt from tree to tree and her mate followed each time. They were incredibly agile and very fast - we couldn’t keep up with them and eventually they were out of sight. It dawned on me then that we had to retrace our steps back up the steep hill to the path. It was definitely worth it though. I had never seen sifaka before so this had been such a treat.
Next we picked up the radio signal from one of the indri that are also in Lana’s study. Indri cannot be kept in zoos so it is only possible to see them in the wild. They are the largest lemur species and, like so many other species, are endangered. I hadn’t dared to hope that I would ever see one, so now my adrenalin was running high with excitement. We followed the signal and before long were again scrambling downwards through the dense forest. A female indri and her mate were sitting high in the trees and we crouched in the undergrowth so as not to disturb them. They were not in the least bit bothered by our presence and they calmly picked leaves and popped them one after another into their mouths. Again photography was difficult. The camera kept hunting for focus and this was actually a problem throughout the day. So I concentrated on watching the indri through my binoculars and capturing the images in my memory (and indeed in my heart). Eventually they moved on, leaping easily through the trees and leaving us far behind. Lana had another treat in store for us though: she suggested that we try to locate another pair in her study, one of whom has a young baby.
Again we climbed back to the track and continued until we picked up a new signal. Before long we were off down the mountain again. This time the descent was even steeper and the terrain was treacherous. I soon learned to glance at the tree trunks before grabbing them after inadvertently grasping a couple that were studded with sharp thorns! All pain and discomfort evaporated the instant we found the indri though. 
 

The baby was enchanting, practising little jumps watched indulgently by his proud mum. We sat in rapt silence for more than an hour. Another indri group started calling their strange, eerie song elsewhere in the forest. It was a magical experience. Then suddenly our pair began to call back, just a few metres from where we were sitting. It was the most beautiful, haunting sound and I am not ashamed to admit that it moved me to tears. In fact I can feel a lump forming in my throat even now as I write about it. We were truly privileged to share the forest for a short time with these wonderful animals. When the indri finally moved off we shared our experience like excited schoolchildren, not believing how lucky we had been. We celebrated by eating our picnic (rice and vegetables) before making the tricky climb back to the track.
Once on the path most of the group headed on back to Rendrirendry, but Ingrid and I decided to amble back very slowly, savouring the experience of being in such an extraordinary location and taking time to look carefully for hidden treasures. We had a lovely couple of hours finding and photographing geckos, unusual plants and invertebrates. We found an enormous millipede and I couldn’t resist picking it up, feeling its hundreds of feet rippling like a Mexican wave across my hands. It was rather like holding a living nail brush and it was so big I needed two hands to hold it.

Nearing Rendrirendry we came across a group of brown lemurs including one called ‘Mr Blue’ whom Ingrid and her team had radio-collared a few weeks ago. Mr. Blue had unexpectedly reacted badly to the tranquilliser and Ingrid had been worried that he might not wake up again. She had taken him to her room and sat up holding him wrapped in a blanket all night. The other lemurs from the group had stayed close, calling from the trees. Thankfully by the time morning arrived he was recovering and it wasn’t long before he went back to his group. Ingrid has developed a soft spot for him so was delighted when we saw him.
On our return I went to the one spot at the camp where it is possible to get a phone signal and sent texts to my family. After dinner the herps team went off to carry out a night survey near the camp. I decided not to go in case I got in the way so instead I settled for a quiet candlelight read on the veranda. I didn’t read much though - I was too distracted by the fireflies dancing in the starlight and by the sounds of the forest at night.
The last entry in my diary that evening was....A FANTASTIC DAY!

Day Eight - Journey to Betampona

The taxibrousse arrived almost on time this morning, and it was great to meet Jeff. Although he is fairly new to his post with Durrell he has been involved with several field conservation projects in the past and is a seasoned traveller. He has previously lived in Madagascar and speaks some Malagasy so I felt a little less nervous about our forthcoming journey.

The taxibrousse had certainly seen better days and I hoped it was up to the task! The first stage of the journey was from Ivoloina to Anosibe, a distance of approximately 24km. The road was very rough, with huge potholes. The vehicle broke down twice. Each time the driver took it all in his stride, simply climbing underneath with a length of rope and tying together whichever parts had come adrift. We passed through several villages. It is very humbling to see how people survive this extreme level of poverty. Yet they always seem to be wearing a smile, cheerfully returning our waves and shouting ‘Vazàha!’ as we chug past.
After almost two hours we slowed yet again to a halt, this time in a village. It took a few moments for Jeff and I to realise that we had not broken down again but had actually arrived at Anosibe. Porters jostled for the privilege of carrying our backpacks as we counted out a large wedge of notes to pay the driver. In the distance I could hear the most joyful gospel choir singing as the villagers gathered for Sunday worship.
Although the road continues beyond Anosibe this vehicle could not take us any further because the bridge which used to span the river has long since collapsed. We therefore needed to cross in a pirogue and join another vehicle once on the other side. We slithered down the steep sandy bank to the river. There hadn’t been much rain lately so the water level was low and we had to wade out through the shallows to get to the boat. The vessel was a simple canoe which had been carved from a tree trunk and didn’t seem to be very stable so we climbed in gingerly. There were no seats so we had to crouch in the bottom of the boat, keeping the centre of gravity as low as possible. I kept very still as we were paddled across, the pirogue wobbling precariously from side to side. I certainly didn’t want to be the person responsible for tipping us all in! On reaching the opposite bank we climbed out, paid the porters and scrambled up the bank where we hoped there would be another taxibrousse awaiting us. The MFG office had booked the vehicle in advance as a ‘special’ which should have given us exclusive use. However when we reached the road there were already half a dozen people crammed hopefully in the back. The driver assured us this was the correct vehicle so we shrugged and got in - we didn’t mind sharing.
Our new transport made the previous taxibrousse look like a Rolls Royce! In my misspent youth I used to take part in banger racing and I can honestly say that I have driven cars in demolition derbies that were more roadworthy than this incredible minibus. All the corners were rounded off by previous impacts and there were no lights left at all. A crude roll cage had been bolted together from scaffolding poles. The handbrake was a lump of wood wedged under the rear wheel - the driver’s mate grabbed it then leapt in as we moved off. And the fuel tank was an old plastic five-litre oil can stood behind the driver’s seat:  once he had stowed away the handbrake block the driver’s mate had to crouch alongside the can and hold two plastic pipes in the top. Amazing!

The next road was also in poor condition so the 12km journey to Fontsimavo took almost an hour. We were met there by an official from Madgascar National Parks, who examined our permit and helped us secure the services of a couple of porters for the last leg of our trip. This was to be a 4km hike to the research station at Rendrirendry because there is no road.

4km doesn’t sound far, but by now the sun was high in the sky and I knew that the last part of the walk was a long climb up a very steep hill so it was not going to be a picnic. It started well though - through villages and alongside agricultural land with lovely views on every side. The track was crossed regularly by the meandering Fontsimavo River and we had to wade across it each time.  This was deliciously cooling for hot feet!

Before long we reached the start of the ascent to Rendrirendry. The track seemed never-ending and climbed up and up and up. It was extremely hot and there was no shade and, despite the training I had done over the previous weeks, I got slower and slower. Jeff insisted that we stopped to give me a rest a couple of times and I think the porters were probably thankful for the opportunity to take a break and share our water.

After two hours I felt that I might not be able to make it much further but at that moment we rounded a bend and I could see the vivid hues of an enormous bougainvillea tree ahead. We had arrived at Rendrirendry. Hoorah!
And what a location for a research station! Views across the hills stretched as far as the eye could see and extending across the valley was the precious primary forest of Betampona.
Ingrid hurried over to greet us. We last met at the MFG meeting in Zurich the previous year and it was so lovely to see her again. She made us very welcome and arranged for our bags to be taken to our accommodation while she gave us a tour of the camp. Surrounded by secondary forest there are offices, a simple kitchen, outdoor dining area, bucket showers and bungalows built in traditional Malagasy style from bamboo, wood and ravenala leaves. The view from my veranda took my breath away - right across Betampona. There is a cook - everyone eats together - so I handed over my meagre supplies and had a welcome bucket shower before lunch. The showers are built on concrete bases that originally formed part of the temporary cages from which captive-bred black and white ruffed lemurs had been released into the reserve. The project had been featured in a documentary featuring comedian and lemur-enthusiast John Cleese several years ago. I was showering on a piece of conservation history!
Lunch was rice and vegetables, washed down with vanilla tea. Ingrid told us about some of the radio-collaring of lemurs that she had been coordinating over the past couple of months. We also met PhD student Lana, who is living at Rendrirendry while she carries out her research on the indri and sifaka population in Betampona. An international herpetology team carrying out a reptile survey were also present - they had just spent the first of three sessions camped in the forest and were back at Rendrirendry for a couple of days to catalogue their findings and service their equipment before returning to the reserve for the next stage of their survey.
Some of the MFG team had brought up with them some toys and books for the local village children and during the afternoon these were presented. The children had great fun blowing bubbles and they were very excited by the colourful books. Later that evening it was lovely to see several children sitting on the step of their hut gathered around their mother and sharing a book together.

After supper of rice and vegetables (this was to become a recurring theme) everyone turned in for an early night. Ingrid told us that unfortunately there was a rat problem at Rendrirendry so it looks like sleep may be disturbed by gnawing and scuffling as at Ivoloina. However I was pretty exhausted after today’s trek so I don’t think it will be too much of a problem. Tomorrow we are going into the forest to track lemurs!