Day Eleven - Back to Ivoloina

I awoke at 5am again to the sound of the indri. I’m going to miss them! Today we leave Betampona and return to Ivoloina.

I went out on to the veranda and saw the bamboo lemurs in a clump of bamboo right next to the hut. I tiptoed back into my room to get my camera. Unfortunately just as I came back out the research centre’s very elderly dog, Puppy, saw the lemurs and hobbled excitedly towards and then right into the bamboo clump. Unsurprisingly the lemurs were not impressed and shot off through the trees, alarm calling vigorously. When Puppy emerged he looked most pleased with himself!

Too soon it was time to leave Rendrirendry. Ingrid was also leaving with us and we sadly said our goodbyes to the Malagasy staff and to Lana before following the porters on the long, steep walk back down to Fontsimavo.
The water level in the river we had crossed so many times on our way up was visibly lower but it was still necessary to wade across in some places. Sadly, all the way down there were signs of tavy, the destructive slash and burn method used to clear land for agriculture. Looking back up at the mountain the location of the reserve boundary was clearly demarcated by the contrast in vegetation inside and outside the protected area. Degraded habitat goes right up to the boundary. Betampona really is a tiny island of biodiversity stranded in an ocean of devastation.

 

At Fontsimavo we boarded the same taxibrousse that we came up in and had a bumpy, slow ride back to the river crossing at Anosibe. The water level was quite a bit lower and we could probably have waded to the opposite side but the pirogue driver was eager to paddle us across so we clambered in.
At the other side we were met by one of the Parc Ivoloina drivers. It was a much more comfortable ride back than we had experienced on our outward journey in the taxibrousse. The road was of course still appalling and we had to go slowly and carefully.
When we arrived back at Ivoloina I got out and took my bag to my room to unpack. Ingrid stayed in the truck and continued her journey to Tamatave. Jeff wanted a quick look around Ivoloina before he also went to Tamatave so he went off with Parc manager Bernard to see the new Amphibian Conservation Centre. A couple of hours later Jeff and I met up for lunch at the Parc’s cafe, the ‘Thirsty Drongo Buvette’. It was very pleasant to sit overlooking the lake, enjoying a plate of pasta and talking about all the amazing wildlife we had seen.

Bernard had arranged for one of the MFG drivers, Dada, to take Jeff to his hotel at Tamatave and Dada offered to take me along too, so I could change some money and get some fresh supplies in town. Once we had dropped Jeff off we drove into Tamatave and I paid a visit to the money changers. I wanted to change 100 Euros and the clerk gave me all the money in 5000 Ariary notes so it was a very fat wedge of notes to cram into my moneybelt! Dada kindly accompanied me to the supermarket and carried my basket so I bought him a bottle of lemonade and a bar of chocolate to thank him.
Dada needed to pick up some parts from the garage so we went back through a different area of town. There was a huge market with stalls selling a wide variety of wares. I wouldn’t mind coming back for a good look around some time.
When I got home I did my washing and had a bucket shower. Christof arrived back and cooked rice with green beans, spring onion and ginger in soy sauce. It was very tasty. After supper we sat outside for a while and chatted. Christof has earmarked some time tomorrow to show me around the Model Station and explain the projects currently taking place there. I’m looking forward very much to learning about that element of the MFG’s work.