This morning I ventured into town to buy some supplies. I
was to be catering for myself at Ivoloina and needed to take everything I might
require with me. First though I would
have to get some currency so went into a bank. To my surprise they do not
change currency – instead I was directed to a seedy-looking establishment
across the road. The guard (who looked like a nightclub bouncer) unlocked the
door and escorted me to the counter. He then left me to carry out my
transaction, locking the door behind him. Once my stash (all 100 Euros worth)
was zipped safely into my money belt I was escorted back to the street. It was
all very high security and I felt like I’d been involved in some sort of
multi-million pound diamond sale!
There is no electricity at Ivoloina (thus no refrigerator)
so I visited the supermarket to stock up on dried foods and a few tins.
Madagascar is well known for producing delicious chocolate so I also popped a
couple of bars in my basket as emergency comfort food. After that I went round
the corner to the market. It was very busy but I enjoyed choosing some fresh
local fruit and vegetables. Everything was tremendous value – two sweet
pineapples, a kilo of mangoes and a huge bunch of tiny bananas for little more
than £1. I remembered to buy some postcards then, laden with my purchases, I
took a very rickety pousse-pousse back to the hotel. It was extremely hot by
this time and I felt very sorry for the driver. He wasn’t a young man and I
felt quite guilty sitting back while he peddled through the traffic. Local
people all use them to get around too though so I tried not to feel too bad –
at least I was supporting the local economy.
I arrived back at the hotel just as the local fishermen were
coming back to shore in their pirogues. Their families were all waiting nearby
to help bring the boats up the beach, to carry the catch and to help mend and
stow away the nets. Some of the children swam to cool off while they were
awaiting their fathers – a bit risky actually, because that coast is well-known
for sharks.
Common mynah birds were arguing raucously in the trees while
I lunched, and several house sparrows hopped hopefully around my feet, much
like they do at home. A bright flash of red zipped across my line of sight and
landed on a nearby branch – a beautiful little bird called a fody. Sadly,
although I captured some of these images my pocket camera stopped working that
evening, corrupting the memory card as it did so, so I lost those pictures. Very
frustrating! Thankfully I do have another camera for the rest of the trip.
In the afternoon I walked to the MFG office to borrow some
wildlife ID guides, passing a spice-processing plant on the way. They were
processing cloves and the smell was amazing – just like Christmas on steroids!
At the office I found out that Karen’s leg was almost certainly broken and a
helicopter had been organised to bring her down from the reserve into Tamatave.
Poor Karen – she must be in much discomfort.
I was also introduced to an Austrian student doing a six
month internship with the MFG, working on Ivoloina’s interpretation signs. We
had a good discussion about her plans and I was able to share some of my
research findings to help with her work. We arranged to meet up again in a few
days at Ivoloina.
Early that evening Maya called to say that she was going to
visit Karen in a nearby hotel and inviting me to join her. She collected me and
we drove along a road with enormous potholes until we eventually arrived at the
Darafify hotel. A bungalow had been
booked for Karen, her husband Gareth and their young son (who had both been at
Betampona with her). Karen was in remarkably good spirits despite having 2
fractures in her leg and being in plaster from her foot to above her knee. Gareth
had carried out emergency first aid when she fell. He had splinted her leg
using disposable nappies, a coke bottle, a cardboard box and duct tape! Apparently
the whole village at the research station had turned out to watch the helicopter
– it was quite an event! Karen told us that the hospital at Tamatave was
dreadful – dirty, very smelly and with rats and cockroaches scuttling across
the floor. She refused to stay overnight and have a general anaesthetic so a
doctor set her leg while she was conscious. She’s certainly a tough old cookie.
At the moment she’s determined to stay on for the MFG meeting, although Gareth
would like to get her back to the UK for some decent medical treatment.
Maya dropped me back
to my hotel and I spent the rest of the evening packing my
things ready for going to Ivoloina tomorrow. Enjoyed a last evening of electric
light and running water....
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